How to Read Your Mold Inspection Report

You Got Your Mold Report. Now What?

You paid for an inspection. The lab results came back. Now you're staring at a document full of Latin names, spore counts, and numbers that don't mean anything to you.

I get it. Mold reports aren't exactly light reading.

But here's the thing: your mold inspection report is the most important document in this entire process. It tells you what's actually in your home. It's the difference between a $500 cleaning and a $15,000 remediation — or sometimes, no action needed at all.

Let me walk you through exactly what you're looking at. No jargon. No scare tactics. Just plain English.

The Three Parts of Every Mold Report

Every legitimate mold inspection report has the same basic structure. Once you understand these three sections, you can read any report from any inspector in Oklahoma or anywhere else.

1. Sample Locations

This section tells you exactly where samples were collected. You'll see room names or locations like "Master Bedroom," "Basement," "HVAC Return," and — critically — "Outdoor Control."

The outdoor sample is your baseline. Every indoor number gets compared to this. If your outdoor sample shows 500 spores per cubic meter and your bedroom shows 400, you're in good shape. If your bedroom shows 5,000 while outdoors is 500? That tells a different story.

Why does this matter? Oklahoma's humidity means we have mold spores floating around outside year-round. Finding spores inside your home is normal — they float in through windows, on your clothes, on your pets. The question isn't whether mold exists. It's whether your indoor levels are elevated compared to what's naturally occurring outside.

2. Mold Types Identified

The lab identifies every type of mold spore found in each sample. You'll see names that look like they belong in a medical textbook:

• Cladosporium — The most common outdoor mold. Finding this indoors typically means spores drifted in from outside. Not usually concerning unless counts are significantly elevated.
• Aspergillus/Penicillium — Often grouped together because they look similar under a microscope. Common in water-damaged buildings. Can indicate a problem at elevated levels.
• Stachybotrys — This is the infamous "black mold." Even small amounts deserve attention. This mold needs consistent moisture to grow, so finding it means you have (or had) a water problem that needs addressing.
• Chaetomium — Another water-damage indicator. Often found alongside Stachybotrys in chronically wet environments.

Don't panic if you see scary-sounding Latin names. The type matters, but the count and the indoor/outdoor comparison matter more. Most healthy people have developed tolerance to common mold spores.

3. Spore Counts

This is where most people get confused. You'll see numbers like "1,200 spores/m³" or "Raw Count: 45."

Here's what these numbers actually mean:

The Most Important Number: Indoor/Outdoor Comparison

If you remember nothing else from this article, remember this:

Your indoor mold levels should be similar to or lower than outdoor levels.

Here's how I explain it to clients: Think of your home like a bathtub. If water is flowing in and out at the same rate, the level stays constant. If the drain is clogged (or there's a new faucet you didn't know about), the water rises.

High indoor spore counts mean something inside your home is "adding to the tub" — producing spores that shouldn't be there. That's what needs to be found and addressed.

Indoor mold spore concentrations should generally be similar to or lower than outdoor levels. When indoor levels are significantly higher — especially 2x or more than outdoor — it suggests an indoor source that may need investigation.

Red Flags to Watch For

When I review a mold report, here's what makes me look closer:

• Indoor counts 2x or higher than outdoor — Definite investigation needed
• Stachybotrys or Chaetomium present (any amount) — These are water-damage indicators that warrant attention
• Mold types found inside that aren't outside — Something specific is growing in your home
• Hyphal fragments above 100/m³ — Indicates active mold growth nearby, not just floating spores
• One room significantly higher than others — Points to a localized source worth investigating

None of these necessarily mean panic. They mean more questions need answers.

What Your Report Should Include (But Often Doesn't)

A quality mold inspection report isn't just numbers on a page. It should give you context and direction. Here's what I include in every TrueSight report:

• Moisture readings — Where did we find elevated moisture? This often points to the root cause.
• Visual observations — What did we actually see during the inspection? Photos where relevant.
• The "why" — Why do these findings make sense given the building's history and conditions?
• Clear recommendations — Not vague suggestions, but specific next steps tailored to your situation.

If your report contains only lab numbers with no interpretation, that's data without analysis. It's like getting blood work results without a doctor explaining what they mean. A good inspector walks you through the findings — that's part of the service.

Questions to Ask After Reading Your Report

Don't just read the report and wonder. Call your inspector (or me, if it's my report) and ask:

1. "What's causing this?" — High mold counts are a symptom. The cause is usually water. Where's the water coming from?
2. "How serious is this?" — Be specific. "Serious" depends on the mold type, concentration, your health, and your living situation.
3. "What should I do next?" — A good inspector provides a clear path forward, whether that's remediation, monitoring, or doing nothing at all.
4. "Do I actually need professional remediation?" — Not every mold finding requires a remediation company. Sometimes cleaning and fixing the moisture source is enough.

A Note About "Normal" Levels

Here's something the mold industry doesn't love to admit: there is no government-defined "safe" level of mold.

The EPA, CDC, and OSHA don't set exposure limits for mold in homes. Why? Because everyone reacts differently. Some people live with elevated mold and never notice a symptom. Others experience headaches at levels that are technically "normal."

This is why I tell clients it's about risk tolerance. Your health history, your sensitivity, your comfort level — all of that matters. I'm not here to tell you what to do. I'm here to tell you what's there, so you can make an informed decision.

We take mold seriously — but not hysterically. Most problems have real solutions, and it's rarely the end of the world.

What to Do Next

If you're still unsure after reading your report, that's okay. Mold reports are technical documents, and interpreting them properly takes experience.

Here's what I suggest: call the inspector who wrote the report. A good inspector will walk you through it, explain the findings in plain language, and answer your questions. That's part of what you paid for.

If the inspector can't (or won't) explain your report clearly, that's a red flag about their service, not about you.

And if you want a second opinion? I'm happy to look at your report and give you my honest assessment. No sales pitch, no upsell — I don't do remediation. My only job is finding the truth.

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